HOPPIN' JOHN

                For good luck on New Years Day - eat black eyed peas.

There has been much debate over the strange name of this rice and bean combination. One theory suggests that "Hoppin' John" is a corruption of pois à pigeon, French for pigeon peas, with which the dish was originally made in the French colonies of the Caribbean, where it was likely created.

          1 cup dried black-eyed peas
          6 ounces smoked kielbasa sausage
          1 medium onion
          2 garlic cloves
          2 celery ribs
          1/2 fresh jalapeño chile
          1 bay leaf
          1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil
          1 3/4 cups chicken broth
          3 tablespoons chopped fresh
              coriander leaves

          Accompaniment: cooked rice

          Quick-soak black-eyed peas.

Quarter kielbasa lengthwise and cut quarters crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces. Chop onion and mince garlic. Cut celery crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Wearing rubber gloves, seed and mince jalapeño.

In a 3-quart heavy kettle cook kielbasa, onion, garlic, celery, jalapeño, and bay leaf in oil over moderate heat, stirring, until onion is softened. Add peas and broth and simmer, covered, 20 minutes, or until peas are tender. Discard bay leaf and stir in coriander and salt and pepper to taste.

Serve Hoppin' John spooned over rice.


   QUICK-SOAK DRIED BLACK-EYED PEAS

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less, but requires additional unattended time.

Pick over peas and in a saucepan cover with cold water by 2 inches. Bring water to a boil and boil peas 2 minutes. Remove pan from heat. Soak peas 1 hour. Drain peas in a sieve.